Italian designer Antonio Marras
© AFP Pierre Verdy

PARIS (AFP) - His models, with their hair loosely pinned up, drifted down the runway in floating chiffon layers, some in a dappled print that captured the effect of sunshine and shadows on a summer afternoon.

Sheer inserts, ripples of ruffles, floor-sweeping trains with loosely tied sashes, even his most elaborate confections embued a light and airy feel.

Straps and bodices gleamed with shells, ribbons and mother-of-pearl.

A stand-out ecru macrame frock over stiff tulle skirts looked as if it was unravelling at the shoulder like the tendrils of his other-worldly models' hair.

His floral prints were inspired by beautiful 19th century botanical paintings reproduced in the exquisite invitation to the show, which also contained a pop-up of butterflies as in children's books.

At the end the books which formed a backdrop to the runway opened to reveal a giant pop-up which had everyone pulling out their mobile phones to take a picture.

Lebanese designer Elie Saab took his inspiration from Claude Monet's garden at Giverny and the watery sunshine of a European summer rather than the scorching heat of his homeland.

Almond blossom green, lilac, violet and buttercup yellow dominated his palette for next season, on their own or combined in a print of interlaced foliage.

As ever dominated by grown-up potential red-carpet wear, the silhouette was ultra fluid, with floaty sleeves, billowing trains and long ties wound round necks which streamed out behind.

But his girly short cocktail frocks with frilly hems looked curiously fussy and dated.

©AFP