A model presents a creation by Antonio Marras for Kenzo
© AFP Pierre Verdy

PARIS (AFP) - Unveiling their collections on the sixth day of Paris fashion week, the creations by both Chloe and Kenzo had a lightness about them. However the two varied on how it came across.

Phoebe Philo, the 31-year-old, British designer at Chloe, stuck to single shades, often black and white, but it was more the silhouette of her wide or tunic dresses or the balloon-, bell- and frilled-sleeves that demonstrated the light touch.

Outfits were short and cuts were clean.

For modern chic, a yellow silk organza blouse with big, soft pleats fluttering at the back was worn above a sumptuous yellow gold duchess satin skirt. Lace and bows featured too.

A model presents a creation by British designer Phoebe Philo for Chloe
© AFP Francois Guillot

But three ecru linen shirts -- smock, grandad and ruffled -- set the tone for the wardrobe of no-nonsense clothes for sensible girls that skimmed hippy chic, the 1960s and school neckties.

And a highlight in the collection was a sunset orange, double linen coat with sleeves cut to three-quarter length to reveal the cuffs of a black taffeta blouse underneath.

At Kenzo, Antonio Marras' wardrobe unfolded as a 'day at the seaside' -- navy and white sailor stripes to begin with. As clouds drifted across the sky and birds soared into view, models sauntered across a bridge and over the sand.

A French-ness seemed to be evoked with a blue, red and white palette, and "J'ai deux amours" by Josephine Baker played as the backing track.

At the end, a romantic assignation on the bridge between a long ivory jet-embroidered dress of the kind of glamour of a bygone age, and a masculine tuxedo.

Then a ship carried all the models off to a far-flung destination.

A model presents a creation by Lars Nilsson for Nina Ricci
© AFP Pierre Verdy

The Sardinian designer's harmonious mix of eras, colours, cultures, patterns -- checks, dots and stripes -- exquisite lace and flower embroidery was rich yet light.

A kimono jacket recalled the Japanese origins of the house, set up by Kenzo Takada who ceded control of his label and his name to the luxury goods group LVMH in 1999. He has just presented his first women's collection for his new "Gokan Kobo" line.

Swedish designer Lars Nilsson for Nina Ricci, this season, seemed to focus on stripes and silver raised stitching, and less on the label's trademark flowery prints.

The collection set out to show the dawning of a new day as lights lit up the catwalk like sunshine streaming through the window on crisp white bed linen.

First out, a white silk gauze dress with blue satin straps as fresh as an early morning breeze.

As the day wore on, pristine blue and white matured into inky and navy blue, purple and berry red for a silk faille jacket and skirt, while white/gold beige was calm and classic.

A black lacquered jacquard jacket and skirt was ideal for a dressy occasion, while a berry red, blue and white striped organza dress, the finale, was simple and light-as-air.

Soft and draped, or stiff and structured -- at Guy Laroche the summer outlines were unambiguous. France's Herve L. Leroux sculpted stiff bodices that stood away from the body.

At the waist of a long burgundy skirt, raised fanning echoed the stiff long pleats that fanned out and downwards from over the knee.

Sleek white dresses brushed the curves without being indiscreet.

Later in the day, Jean-Paul Gaultier for Hermes and John Galliano will present their ready-to-wear lines for spring-sumer 2006.

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