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Paris catwalks zap style codes
Posted on Tuesday, October 10, 2006 (EST)
Swinging from sporty chic shorts to the girly sweetness of waistless dresses and elegant womanly tailleurs, Paris Fashion Week offered no clear direction for summer's style.
 
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Models present creations by Casablanca-born designer Albert Elbaz for Lanvin
© AFP/File Pierre Verdy

PARIS (AFP) - Often it seemed it was the news surrounding the eight-day extravaganza, which wrapped up late Sunday, that sparked greater interest among the fashion crowd than the styles on the catwalk.

In the long shadow of a debate over whether models are unhealthily thin, French designer Jean Paul Gaultier gave his 30th anniversary ready-to-wear collection an aerobic work-out.

Not only that but he sent American model 'Velvet', a 135-kilo (297 pounds), plus-size model down his runway in high-heeled basket ball boots, satiny boxer shorts and 'go faster' stripes.

Gaultier, once known as fashion's 'enfant terrible,' treated nearly 3,000 guests to a magic show in which fashion editors and models took part at a party to mark his design landmark.

US singer Janet Jackson was among the guests, as well as appearing at shows throughout the week where front rows also included Victoria Beckham, Lenny Kravitz, Katie Holmes and Demi Moore.

Rumours concerning legendary French designer Yves Saint-Laurent that spread through the Paris fashion crowd turned out to be alarmist after the couturier slipped coming out of a hotel.


A model presents a creation by Italian designer Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu
© AFP Pierre Verdy

Although the 70-year-old had to have two stitches above the eye, he was described Friday by a source at the Fondation Pierre Berge-Yves Saint-Laurent here as being "very well".

China made its debut at Paris Fashion Week when label Jefen by designer Frankie Xie kicked off the official programme with a young, Western-oriented wardrobe.

Jasmine Di Milo, the designer daughter of billionaire Mohamed al-Fayed, unveiled her fourth collection at a villa in Paris' Bois de Boulogne where the Duke and Duchess of Windsor once lived.

Dutch design duo Viktor and Rolf staged perhaps the most spectacular catwalk presentation with a ballroom dancing couple topping the show and a troop of male dancers to tail it.

Amid the elaborate setting of crystal chandeliers, dimly-lit little tables, glasses of champagne, a string ensemble and romantic crooner, the pair also plugged their Antidote male fragrance.

Elsewhere it was the accessories that seemed to eclipse the clothes.

Bangle bracelets and strings of colourful beads were key to Chanel and Christian Lacroix's looks where models were also shod in funky platform sandals or wedgies.

And the clothes? Britain's Alexander McQueen sculpted fragile romance with flowers and birds, while sensual draping with a strong spirit defined John Galliano's silhouette.


Combination of pictures shows creations from the Spring/Summer 2007 ready-to-wear collections in Paris
© AFP/File

Hermes nonchalantly took to the seashore for the elegance of a yacht cruise, and at Christian Dior, restrained suits and variations on draped frocks signalled a subdued summer.

Black and white gingham provided Stefano Pilati with his chic wardrobe for Yves Saint Laurent, and at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz' electrically-charged show had a contemporary vibe.

Dries van Noten loosened things up for a sportier glamour, Valentino eyed youthful A-line fluidity and Elie Saab's golden hues were in tribute to the sunshine of post-war Beirut.

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel offered leggy hemlines and new takes on tweed ensembles, while Christian Lacroix's "Wild Journey" was a happy mix of colour, print and styles.

Jean-Jacques Picart, a luxury fashion consultant, described the Paris shows as having been a "season of laboratory, test and search" as designers seek new recipes for success.

"Designers will see more clearly in March," he said.

©AFP

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