A model presents a creation by Jean Paul Gaultier
© AFP Francois GuillotPARIS (AFP) - At Christian Dior, meanwhile, John Galliano made a marked style U-turn from his previous season's 'gothic chic' for soft draping and sensible suits, while poetic versatility flowed at Issey Miyake.
Urged on by aerobics instructors, Gaultier's models will limber up for spring-summer 2007 in high-heeled basket ball boots, legs covered in fishnet tights or stripey socks, and wearing satiny boxer shorts.
'Go faster' stripes raced up, down and along garments, such as loose jackets like a jogging top, while hoods made them look like sweat shirts, and numbers on the back told their team position.
A model presents a creation by Jean Paul Gaultier
© AFP Francois GuillotAmid the trim bodies, the French designer included a fuller-figured model winning warm applause, and a timely move in the current debate over skinny models sparked by a ban in Madrid on girls deemed too thin.
But the work-out certainly did not forget luxury and glamour, with sexily low-draped tops, rich embroidery, glittery details and cut-away shoulders in sumptuous yellow, purple and turquoise.
Singers Janet Jackson and Lenny Kravitz were seated front-row at the athletic show, which kicked off with a retrospective of some of Gaultier's trademark and iconic styles since 1976.
A model presents a creation by John Galliano
© AFP Francois GuillotAfter Dior's gothic oversized buckles, black headbands and crucifixes for winter, the British designer's restrained suits and variations of draped frocks heralded a more classic summer.
Round-shouldered suit jackets in stormy grey or granite were paired with polite pencil skirts, adorned only by tone-on-tone embroidery, vent slits on the arm or flat layering.
Dresses overwhelmingly dominated the ready-to-wear wardrobe that seemed to celebrate down-to-earth womanly elegance, from simple shifts to elaborately draped dresses. The frocks were embellished with silver and peacock feather glitter, or chains.
A model presents a creation for Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa
© AFP Pierre VerdyHowever, for full-length evening wear the Dior woman dresses like a goddess or is statuesque, in softly falling folds and shoulder-to-shoulder, or even multi-directional draping in discreet shades of beige, pink, taupe, green or black.
Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake constantly changed direction and tempo but without losing the overall sense of a gentle, poetic soul.
The designer took very simple pieces in watery grey and added mere hints of indigo just visible under the arm or in edging at the waist of a puffed skirt.
Then, like a butterfly from a chrysalis, models unbuttoned, undid or reversed the clothes to reveal summery indigo and poppy shades with prints like daisy petals.
A model presents a creation by Jean Paul Gaultier
© AFP Francois GuillotChemically-washed denim and super-supple sheep skin in mottled colours directed the collection towards a casual-smart look before pleats took over, especially effective as flowers.
Nature and its beauty seemed to shine through the collection -- red jute thread embroidered on a dress like veins on a petal was stunning.
Scrawled with the words 'I Am Expensiv', wide ribbon bound a model's waist or was tied sweetly in a large bow at Vivienne Westwood just like enticing gifts waiting to be opened.
The British designer, who always has a message, said the idea for her collection was "a little girl that comes in a box protected like a Barbie doll".
A model presents a creation by Vivienne Westwood
© AFP Pierre VerdyShe went on: "We take her out of her box and this is what she has to say, she says: 'I am expensive and I am supported and subsidized by all the poor people in the world... the future depends on me."
The varied collection had curve-hugging pieces in glittery fabrics, perky 1950s dresses with the bust deliberately too big and skirts of not-quite-fitting jaggedy pieces sewn together.
On Wednesday, Givenchy, Dries van Noten, Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld unveil ready-to-wear collections for spring-summer 2007 as Paris fashion week continues until October 8.
©AFP