British designer John Galliano appears at the end of Dior Spring/Summer 2007 ready-to-wear fashion show in Paris October 3, 2006. . Photo Credit: REUTERS/Charles PlatiauBy Marie Maitre
PARIS (Reuters) - Christian Dior's showman designer John Galliano, who astounded the fashion world with gothic chic and mermaid gowns, yet again took his audience by surprise on Tuesday, this time by going for straightforward and understated.
To loud hip hop beats and "going back to basics, this is where it all began" lyrics, models with Joan of Arc hair styles paraded in sober grey and beige cotton or wool suits, or a khaki Audrey Hepburn-like sleeveless dress.
It was a tribute to Monsieur Dior, the designer who made soft shoulders, waspy waists and flowing skirts a trademark.
Under the glass cupola of the 1900 Grand Palais, Galliano showed the extent of his art in a beautifully-crafted beige silk embroidered wrapped dress with a revealing back or silk tops adorned in the front with discreet rows of small chain.
"Galliano is one of the greatest designers in the world. He loves the woman and makes her look good. He has originality and leaves great room to freedom of expression," said Italian actress Monica Bellucci, the new face of Dior make-up.
American singers Lenny Kravitz and Janet Jackson lent further star power to the show, stirring a media frenzy as they arrived, fashionably late, at the Grand Palais.
"Dior is an extraordinary trademark ... Mr Galliano is extremely creative," Bernard Arnault, chairman of the LVMH luxury group which owns Dior. Asked whether the designer's shows gave a lot of publicity for the brand, Arnault said: "Yes, judging by revenues. Sales have risen a lot."
LVMH, which also owns the Louis Vuitton brand, TAG Heuer watches and Dom Perignon champagnes, last month reported a 46 percent rise in half-year net profits, reaping rewards from a global hunger for luxury goods.
Billowing evening dresses, in pink, beige or black, adorned with sequin, tiny buttons on the side and shoulder straps intertwining in the front or in the back, or one stunning pink number with a dramatic decollete, punctuated Galliano's shows.
The man himself made a brief appearance on the catwalk, saluting a devout audience in a grey suit spiced up by a huge white pocket handkerchief and a Borsalino hat.