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Viktor and Rolf cater to glamour world, high street
Posted on Monday, October 02, 2006 (EST)
Want to buy glamorous attire from a luxury store or rather get it off the high street? Fans of Dutch duo Viktor and Rolf can have it both ways this autumn.
 
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A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor and Rolf during Spring/Summer 2007 ready-to-wear fashion collection in Paris October 2, 2006.. Photo Credit: REUTERS/ Philippe Wojazer

By Kerstin Gehmlich

PARIS (Reuters) - Want to buy glamorous attire from a luxury store or rather get it off the high street? Fans of Dutch duo Viktor and Rolf can have it both ways this autumn.

The twin-like designers presented a luxurious collection for well-heeled shoppers on Monday, just weeks before their more affordable line for fashion giant H&M hits the stores.

Putting on a ballroom-inspired show, the flamboyant duo made clear their cooperation with the Swedish retailer would not reduce the glamorous and luxurious attire of their main line.

With chandeliers dangling from the ceiling and front-row guests sipping champagne, Viktor and Rolf paraded out models in tight transparent tops and star-embroidered shorts to the sounds of an orchestra.

"We are die-hard romantics. But at the same time we are also conceptualists. So we wanted to do something light and entertaining. That's how we came to think of ballroom dancing," Rolf Snoeren told reporters after the show.

One model wore a trench coat featuring gold-shimmering stars at the waist, flaring out over a wide tutu-style skirt.

The show stayed faithful to the conceptual bent of Viktor and Rolf, who for a decade have delighted the fashion world with catwalk shows bordering on performance arts or theatre.

Eight ballroom dancers in tails paired up at the end of the show, swirling over the catwalk underneath a giant disco ball.

"Fashion is more than just a nice dress on a hanger. Fashion is about dreaming," Viktor Horsting said, wearing similar dark glasses, a black jacket and jeans as his design partner. The duo said they were looking forward to the H&M line coming out.

MULTITASKING YAMAMOTO

With that cooperation, the two follow in the footsteps of other designers taking on multiple jobs on and off the catwalks.

Germany's Karl Lagerfeld and Britain's Stella McCartney also designed lines for H&M and Japan's Yohji Yamamoto produces outfits for German sportswear maker Adidas under his Y-3 line.

Pierre-Francois Le Louet from trend consultancy Nelly Rodi said there were no risks of devaluing a designer's main line if the cooperation with the high street store only happened once.

"It's risky if it's happening each season, and if the lines are too significant or too creative," he said. "The essence of a house's creativity must not be expressed in the second lines."

Hilary Alexander, fashion editor for the London Daily Telegraph, agreed.

"There are many young women and girls who love what Viktor and Rolf do but who can never afford it," she said on the sidelines of the show. "I don't think it is diluting or downgrading their main collection."

Yamamoto, whose cooperation with Adidas to produce upmarket lifestyle clothes has just been extended until 2010, won much applause for his latest Y-3 collection at New York's Fashion Week last month.

On Monday, the Japanese designer presented a slick selection of asymmetric women's suits for his main ready-to-wear line.

"I wanted to make sure that we are elegant and avant-garde," the soft-spoken designer told Reuters after the show, which saw models strutted out in big-collared jackets or wide-sleeved waistcoats, with apron-style blouses attached.

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