A model presents a creation by Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto
© AFP Pierre VerdyPARIS (AFP) - Although ultra-short hemlines and dare-to-bare are being seen a lot elsewhere on catwalks for spring-summer 2007, the veteran Japanese designer carefully covered up models in precision-cut swathes of fluid fabric.
Mostly in his trademark black, jackets were long to the thigh on one side and short at the hip on the other, mirroring the models' asymmetric hair styles, long and crimped at the back, smoothly cropped short at the side and with a jaggedy fringe.
He skillfully sculpted a sleeveless dress proving why he is the master of shape, and accessorized it with metallic no-fuss jewellery resembling refined tubing or wire that loosely snaked around the neck and arms.
Soulful Elvis Presley classics on the backing track set a laid-back rhythm for the collection, which also explored contrast such as feather-light transparent black next to opaque thicker fabric.
Pointy collars poked up from under scarves encircling the neck and oversized white lacey cuffs offset sharp black jackets. Black stepped aside momentarily for gleaming white, vivid turquoise, soft grey or russet.
Dutch duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren topped and tailed their spectacular show with the old-fashioned grace and poise of ballroom dancers gliding along the catwalk.
A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf
© AFP Pierre VerdyIn fact, the show, with all the trappings of a cabaret -- crystal chandeliers, dimly-lit little tables, champagne on ice, a string ensemble and romantic crooner -- almost stole, well, the show. Especially when male dancers in black tails took to the floor.
But amid the spectacle, the design pair offered variations on black jackets adorned with bursts of star motifs, narrow trousers or thickly layered ballerina skirts.
Fine fleshy-coloured fabric like a second skin tricked the eye for leggings with clinky crystals runing down the front, or nude tops. It also coloured a beautiful billowing shirt with a caped back.
Charleston-esque fringing swished from the front of a simple dress or at the bottom of a jacket, while heels were given the twinkling allure of chunks of crystal, and tops sparkled.
Futurism seems to be fashion's buzz word at the moment. Refreshingly, Russia's 28-year-old Alena Akhmadullina chose to look back, way back, in fact 120 years back, and through the lense of a camera.
Old photos had sparked her contemporary snap of classic and period pieces.
Skirts and dresses were long and flowing; mannish jackets, waistcoats and trousers were strict and unadorned. In each family portrait, models wore wigs done up into dusted coiffed buns or wavy men's hair.
Bulbous-shaped heels and cameo brooches provided the charming detail to a collection in sepia, white, black, pink, pea green and blue. She also tossed in bubble gum pink and lime green.
However, the overall effect was very wearable and far from historically heavy; the cuts were loose and fluid, fabrics light and silky and prints, especially the painted faces, were very fresh.
For a light-hearted ending, the Saint Petersburg designer offered over-exaggerated creations in pure white metallized cotton -- lapels that literally stood off jackets, sculpture-like dresses and huge bonnets.
The idea also related to "the light and the shadow" of the old photos, she said through an interpreter afterwards.
On Tuesday, French designer Jean Paul Gaultier, marking his 30th anniversary as a designer this month, as well as John Galliano for Christian Dior and Vivienne Westwood present collections.
©AFP