A model presents a creation by Italian designer Gianfranco Ferre
© AFP Francois Guillot

MILAN (AFP) - A surprising sobriety ran through Donatella Versace's ready-to-wear line, unveiled here Friday, where short dresses had no regard for the waist, but focused instead on the bust.

In an array of contrasting shades, from absinth, white, black, ivory, or petrol blue, pale grey and chocolate, bands of fabric snaked their way around skirts and short jackets, or even little coats.

The designer sent out short black Empire-line dresses with graphic cutouts above the chest, while the bustier of long dresses looked like a corset, giving the allure of plastic molding.

The rocker Prince attended the show, on the penultimate of eight days of Milan catwalks, and was due to perform later in the evening at a Versace-organised event.

A model presents a creation by Italian designer Donatella Versace
© AFP Filippo Monteforte

Gianfranco Ferre said a dream about a cruise-liner en route for South America had inspired him for his nautical-themed collection of dominant white, black, navy and bordeaux.

Mini-skirts mingled on deck with cropped blousons, which looked part-trench, and belted shirts over shorts.

Tulip skirts and white shorts were teamed with shortened car coats, boleros or spencers worn by models in high boots; a tiny cabled sweater in the colour sand barely went past the chest to reveal the white and navy stripes of a T-shirt.

But Ferre's summer evenings spelled a more sensual way of dressing, with frocks and gipsy skirts which wrapped around the body like shawls decorated with fringing, pompoms and passementerie.

Gianfranco Ferre
© AFP Francois Guillot

At DSquared2, a nautical theme had similarly inspired Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten for a collection synonymous with seduction that included a classic wardrobe for bathing in basic white, navy and stripes, only re-thought and re-done.

Models with hair styles like the characters from American soap operas, perched on platform heels, wore short pleated white dresses with a navy sweater thrown around their shoulders.

The catwalk was transformed into the jetty of a small Italian fishing port where men sat at tables on the terrace of a cafe watching the stylish comings and goings.

Amid the beige mini-skirts with a short navy jacket, for instance, the traditional codes of male dressing crept in, such as comfy striped shorts into which was tightly tucked a man's taut shirt.

Shortly before the show, the platform holding several dozen photographers partially caved in. No one was hurt.

Milan fashion week closes on Saturday after shows by Missoni and Roberto Cavalli, among others, before fashion editors and buyers move on to Paris for a further eight days of ready-to-wear shows from Sunday.

©AFP