A model presents a creation by Italian designer Giorgio Armani
© AFP Filippo Monteforte

MILAN (AFP) - From 80s disco, to breezy chic, quiet sophistication and modern twists to retro looks, Armani, D and G, Salvatore Ferragamo and Burberry Prorsum offered a wealth of options.

If variety is the spice of life, then Milan fashion week so far certainly promises a hot summer ahead.

But Giorgio Armani had just the thing to cool off -- a swimming pool shimmering in the moonlight like a lagoon as an inviting backdrop to his elegant show.

Making trousers and jackets the focus, the Italian designer kept the style relaxed for his women's ready-to-wear wardrobe for spring-summer 2007, tossing in touches of androgyny.

So fluidly-cut pants swayed with each step down the catwalk and jackets had structured shoulders that added up to an air of nonchalant elegance, topped off with a jaunty man's trilby.

A model presents a creation by Italian designer Anna Molinari for Blugirl
© AFP Filippo Monteforte

Soft shades defined the Armani palette with tones of greys, rose, sand and cream, such as for a long pearly-grey dress with rose-hued flowers, while black put in an appearance for evenings.

Ironically, after the fuss over skinny models that dominated London fashion week, Milan was kicked off on Saturday by Elena Miro, a label specialising in clothes for the full-figured woman.

"If there's a lot of interest today in real women, we are very happy, we're not going to change our philosophy," Elena Miro's communication director Mauro Davico said in a telephone interview.

"It's our mission," he added of the label, set up 30 years ago, which has now unveiled its collections three times in about 12 months in the Italian fashion capital.

The storm began when five models were banned from Madrid's major fashion show because they were too thin, amid general concern over setting an unhealthy example.

At Salvatore Ferragamo, designer Graeme Black said here he would not agree with a "system of regulation because what do you say? 'I'm banning you because you're skinny', that's discrimination."

But he said in comments backstage ahead of his show for the Florence-based fashion house that he believed model agencies as well as the girls themselves bore a responsibility.

Back down to the business of clothes, the 39-year-old Scottish designer said he had wanted to "capture the mood and atmosphere" of Rio de Janeiro after a holiday there two years ago.

Models present creations by Italian designer Giorgio Armani
© AFP Filippo Monteforte

With cuffed shorts and patterned swimwear, the Ferragamo woman breezes from the beach into the city, changing into a crisp, cinched white and red-striped blazer or flouncy strapless top.

But the jungle is ever-present, with applied leaf designs in suede covering a voluminous pretty red skirt, while dresses were cut under the bust lending plenty of movement.

And grey, white and especially pale lemon give a fresh softness.

At Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey turned out chic separates in muted tones, with echos of the 1960s and eye-catching details. But most notable was his focus on charmingly structured sleeves that were shortened and cleverly sculpted for a very modern touch to coats and jackets.

After last season's chunky knits for the ski slopes and glamorous apres-ski in dominant winter white, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are off to the disco for the summer.

Black shiny leggings were a key look for their younger D and G line, rivalled by brightly coloured tights in electric blue, lime green, orange or fuchsia pink -- not for any shrinking violet.

Towering wedgie sandals with ribbon ankle ties only emphasised the elongated figure-hugging silhouette of ultra short hemlines, at times punctuated by wide belts.

The Italian design duo unveil their main Dolce and Gabbana collection here later in the week as part of the eight-day fashion extravaganza of nearly 100 catwalk shows.

©AFP