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Belgian designers give men's city smarts a dressing down
Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 (EST)
Belgian menswear designers teamed up city smarts with sporty casuals for a dressed-down summer look that was also polished enough for the office.
 
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A model presents a creation for "Dries Van Noten"
© AFP Francois Guillot

PARIS (AFP) - Whites, various shades of grey and black dominated at Dries Van Noten's refined collection for spring-summer 2007, until powdery pink, turquoise, coral and yellow prints crept in towards the end.

Inspiration had come from Francis Ford Coppola's 1983 black and white movie 'Rumble Fish' in which "only at the last five minutes you have a little bit of colour coming in," the designer said, after the show at the Fine Arts School on the French capital's Left Bank.

He pared down the formality of pristine, tailored jackets or pants with simple black patent flip flops, or teamed uniform-like shirts with tone-on-tone ties over sweat pants.

Compatriot Raf Simons also gave summer smarts a dressing down. He made tailored shorts a focal point of his wardrobe, which was beautifully pure in the cut of the clothes, uncluttered yet with eyecatching detail.


Model presents creation for Kris Van Assche
© AFP Francois Guillot

Front-pleated or wide legged, the shorts were paired under close-fitting white polo neck tops to offer a practical way to stay cool but smart, or with suit jackets offset by lace-ups and socks.

The shorts gradually got sportier, while a series of sleeveless tunic T-shirts in an array of colours resembled a parade of a handful of the flags from teams at the World Cup.

A kind of modern take on Gladiator sandals lifted clean-cut, slender suits.

Jean Paul Gaultier, meanwhile, reinvented rock star glam for spring-summer 2007 with transparent fabrics and fluid shapes, but models, both male and female, kept their feet firmly on the ground -- in ultra-wedged espadrilles.

Tight jeans and little jackets proved an equally sexy option for both sexes. But for nonchalant masculine glamour, a putty-hued tunic, its tails floating from under a grey sequined waistcoat, paired with dark jeans, was perfect.


A model presents a creation by French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier
© AFP Pierre Verdy

To raise the glam stakes, satiny black Bermudas with knee-high stripey socks and a sheeny black jacket would help any star stay cool, while delicate chiffon tops with faint prints of kings and knights were a hip and breezy option for a stroll by the shore's edge.

Ever wondered what kind of wardrobe a gigolo might need for looking seductive from morning until night? Belgian designer Kris Van Assche had the answer at his show dedicated to Lauren Hutton, who starred in the 1980 film 'American Gigolo' alongside Richard Gere.

Neat matching underwear, smart casuals like a blouson jacket and buttoned-up T-shirts and slim unfussy suits teamed with a crisp white shirt should cover most options.

All in a mostly sober palette punctuated by buttercup yellow or lipstick red.

"It's American Gigolo, more like 24 hours in the day of an American gigolo," Van Assche said after the show at a chic Paris hotel.

Male models were accompanied by older women on their arm dressed in identical outfits to the men, such as a three-piece suit or slacks, and carried it off with panache.

On Sunday, the line-up for the third day of men's fashion week, running in the French capital until Tuesday, includes Yves Saint Laurent, Hermes, Paul Smith and Ann Demeulemeester.

©AFP

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