A creation by John Galliano
© AFP Francois Guillot

PARIS (AFP) - With wide-waisted, baggy trousers and slouchy jackets, Yamamoto seemed to be saying that smart need not necessarily mean stiff and formal -- chic can also be about comfort.

At Yohji Yamamoto, it need not all be serious either.

Ever playful on detail, the Japanese designer filled his spring-summer 2007 collection with braces that laced in and out of shirts, jackets and pockets, popped out at the back or were printed on T-shirts.

Loose jackets were teamed with front-pleated trousers or cropped shorter to offer effortless style for the man in search of both ease and elegance. A sheer pinstripe was a more novel take on city smarts.

A model shows a creation by Issey Miyake
© AFP Pierre Verdy

Moving down a gear, Yamamoto maintained the mood with roomy dungarees, silver polka dot trousers and T-shirts, one with 'He Is Helpless' on the front -- but surely not, when he's dressed in Yamamoto's creations.

Meanwhile, while half the world may be glued to the soccer World Cup, Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake seemed to have his eye more on Wimbledon tennis action for his last menswear collection for the fashion house.

Next summer will be full of the fresh colours and lightweight clothes of field, track or court.

Leather jackets were chalky white, while lawn greens provided the fresh palette for below-the-knee shorts, and trousers in cool minty stripes were worn with tennis shoes.

Scoreboard numbers covered a pristine blazer, trousers and coat; casual pants had zips at the ankle like tracksuit bottoms, while a silky baseball jacket came in emerald green.

A model shows a creation by John Galliano
© AFP Francois Guillot

And for the post-match party? No problem. Crisp sporting whites take on a flowery flourish with a delicate leafy print in shades of green on a loosely-cut, cool, white suit.

At John Galliano, the high-voltage show at a television studio in a northern suburb of the French capital opened with sparks flying from atop electricty pylons running the length of the runway, prompting wild applause.

A metallic grey trench coat and bowler hat with a retro-feel, first out in the show's running order were almost a disappointment after such a dramatic beginning, but the show kept the fashion pack on its toes.

The British designer, who next week unveils his latest haute couture collection for Christian Dior, gave a modern twist to 1960s classics such as drainpipes and short jackets. He added thick-soled shoes and quiffs, before mixing in a Latin vibe.

A model displays an outfit by Yamamoto
© AFP Francois Guillot

At Louis Vuitton, US designer Marc Jacobs sought to create a casual and elegant summer men's wardrobe of "nonchalance."

Keeping the silhouette sharp and slim, he used Hawaiian-inspired floral prints, and a palette of whites, off-whites, butter yellows, turquoise and deep indigos.

"All the men looked like they had somewhere to go," he said after the show.

Earlier, Japanese label 0044 staged a striking outdoor show in the stark glare of the hot midday sun, leaving black-clad fashionistas huddled in the shade of the cobbled courtyard.

A relentless boom, like distant cannon fire, mixed with tribal drums and the haunting howls of animals for a slightly sinister soundtrack to designer Seiichiro Shimamura's primal nod to raw masculinity.

With their heavily-kohled eyes, models prowled in horned masks and feathers in their ironed-straight 'manes'. But the collection added up to a wearable set of pared-down staples -- close-fitting pants, loose shirts and jackets.

Black and white rule in 0044's jungle, with a fleeting petal pink or grey.

Men's fashion week continues on Saturday with the cream of Belgium's design talent on show. Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons and Kris Van Assche are joined by France's Jean Paul Gaultier.

The men's catwalk shows run until Tuesday.

©AFP