A model presents a creation by Diane von Furstenberg
© AFP Nicholas RobertsNEW YORK (AFP) - Opening with the sensual voice of onetime German cabaret singer Marlene Dietrich, the show entitled "Foreign Affair" seemed intent on convincing the audience that women can look elegant even in times of crisis.
In a packed room, watched by celebrities including Hollywood star Susan Sarandon, the cinched tweed suits came out one after the other on Sunday.
With felt caps over big hair, models wore large, military-style coats tempered with a distinctly feminine cut. Overcoats were gray backed with prune, sometimes in mesh, revealing a blue satin dress, for example, underneath.
Furstenberg also offered dresses in gold or silver lame with a single shoulder strap or with shorter black and silver patchwork thread and fringed hemlines.
A model presents a creation by Diane von Furstenberg in New York
© AFP Nicholas RobertsHer spy-models carried large brown leather luggage, signed by the designer, and wore Chinese-style close fitted dresses with low collars, split up the side and printed with large black flowers over ivory.
After their shift from Berlin to Shanghai, Furstenberg's models swapped overcoats for short leather jackets covering organza blouses offset by pencil skirts in green taffeta.
Born in Brussels in 1946, Furstenberg is a master of reinvention. She moved to New York in 1970 and soon afterwards created her iconic wrap dress, which became an instant classic.
After moving to Paris in the early 1980s, she returned to the United States in 1990, relaunching her brand in 1997 and sealing her success.
In 2006, she was named head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and is now considered at the head of her profession in New York.
Other designers showing their latest creations over the weekend included Max Azria, who presented his collection for French label Herve Leger.
A model presents a creation by Diane von Furstenberg in New York
© AFP Nicholas RobertsHis models walked out wrapped in his trademark bandage-style figure-hugging dresses, both short and long, in black, gray and prune, asymmetrically cut at the back.
Among the hundreds of fashion houses descending on New York this week are all-American favorites such as Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Vera Wang, and young, relative unknowns such as Carlos Miele and Iodice from Brazil.
Designers will be showing their 2008 autumn and winter collections until Friday, when the crowd moves on to London for its own Fashion Week.
©AFP